I couldn't have been more comfortable at this hotel. The proprietress, Angela, took good care of me all week, as if I were a member of her family. As I was travelling on my own, she kept an eye on me and we spent some happy hours putting the world to rights on the front terrace. She also gave me the recipe for her olive oil cake, which I ate every day at breakfast and loved. Spyros and Nadina arrived later in the week and took me to two wonderful 'hidden' tavernas in the mountains, where the food was wonderful, and dessert was grapes pulled straight from the vine above our heads. I walked to the beach every day (about 25 minutes) and gradually found my way around Zacharo, which is a working town, not a touristy place, and I preferred this. I walked to the top of the village where the view from the church is stunning: overlooking the town all the way to the sea, and the mountains on the other side. The children played football in the square of an evening while local people relaxed at their tables with a cold beer or strong coffee. I was so chilled by the end of my week at the Rex that I could barely move. It was a wonderful, restful break and I'm looking forward to going back again.